Sunday, October 15, 2023
I woke early, around 4:30, got up just before 5, had my Cheerios, then drove from Kanab to Zion. I hung out in my van for a couple hours, had more food and fluids, then around 9:30, I took the Zion Canyon shuttle bus to the Grotto stop (#6) for my hike of Angel’s Landing. On the bus ride, I sat next to a guy from Fort Wayne, Indiana. From his conversation, I determined he had spent significant time out west. He had visited a lot of parks and places, most recently Antelope Canyon. He was friendly and engaged in talk, though, if I had not spoken up, I don’t think he would have said much. After the bus ride, while sitting at a picnic table at the Grotto, I talked with a couple from the Philly area for about ten minutes.
This was my third time hiking Angel’s Landing. It was no less exciting than the other two times. In some ways, it was my best of the three times. Being solo, it gave me a sense of independence in terms of timing, which was in a way different in the times hiking with Richie (May 2022) and with Laura (November 2022). I stopped along the way, took in the scenery more, talked more with other people. They were both fantastic hikes, and I do not mean to indicate anything of negative nature. I loved doing those hikes, and with Laura it felt so magical, it was great. This time was just very different, it had its own characteristics, and it was magical in its own way. I am fortunate to have been able to have each of these experiences.
There was no check-point at the start. There was the shade of a canopy, where the rangers were sitting the other two times, but no park rangers were there to check one’s reservation. Check-in took place at Scout’s Landing, which is geologic low point between Angel’s Landing and the West Ridge. It is almost 2 miles from the trailhead to Scout’s Landing. It has an elevation gain of 1100’. The West Ridge Trail goes north from there, Angel’s Landing runs south.
Angel's Landing is a spectacular, adrenaline-filled hike. The views, the weather, the physical challenge, at times can be a challenge to one's nerve, but also it is a mental-emotional high, a spiritual experience. There is an instant comradery with other hikers. Hiking it May 2022 with my brother Richie and in November 2022 with my friend Laura, we noticed everyone seems to break out with kindness and good-will, as if there is a friendly little community created. There is a positive energy that is present. There are many places where one way traffic is the norm, and it is almost always the case that other hikers are of the mindset to give the right of way. There is plenty of talk exchanged about the wonder of the hike, the views, the environment. I think just about everyone gets a buzz from this hike.
At the start of the hike, over the first half mile, it felt somewhat cold. The trail was in the shade, and there was a moderate breeze that accentuated the chill in the air. I talked with a French couple while walking this section. They were in the US for two weeks and had just spent five days in San Francisco. We parted company as I stopped to take a photo. At this point, the trail was in sunshine, that breeze had disappeared, and it felt warm now. I took off my jacket and long-sleeve short. Two women, Sanny and Kaycee, caught up with me and talked a few minutes. They were from NYC. We passed each other a few times as we made our way to Scout’s Landing, stopping to talk each time.
The trail along this section is steep with several switchback that are about 75-100 yards long. At the top section, it looks as if the trail has been completely carved out of a sandstone wall. It is an amazingly moving experience seeing first from a distance, the trail carved in rock, then walking through that section. It has views down the Canyon adding a sense of wonder to it. After the carved trail section, one reaches the middle section, which is relatively flat, and goes up a narrow canyon that is marked as a quiet zone, as it is the home of The Mexican Spotted Owl. Signs ask to keep the noise down, as it is their habitat and noise can distract them from their necessary activities. I noted that many people pay no attention to the signs. I heard some bird-like sounds, and I tried to pick them up on my Merlin app, but honestly, people were talking and their was a kind of magnification due to being in the narrow canyon, such that I could hear the birds, but Merlin did not detect anything. This part of the trail is known as the Refrigerator section. It is in the shade most of the day, and it was cool there as I passed through.
The walls of canyon show layer upon layer of sedimentary deposits over years and years of time. It is mind-boggling to think of it, of the time it would take to build up these walls. And the layers are now pitched on an angle, the result of uplift over time. Layers of sand deposited, layer of Earth created, then solidified into rock over time, over millions of years.
After the Refrigerator comes some more switchbacks, known as “Walter’s Wiggles,” about 21-22 short but steep turns rising to Scout’s Landing. I started the Angel’s Landing section around 11:45. It was fantastic. I loved the chains and, this being my third time, I had less apprehension about safety. I simply enjoyed the act of moving along the sandstone trail. There were two condors flying around below me as I walked the trail. The trail and its variations of chain-assisted segments, the steep drop-offs, the carved-out footholds, the steep pitch of the natural step sections, and the heights above the Virgin River and canyon road below, it is all an adrenaline rush. I can’t stress that enough, how it energizes me, and I think this is a common occurrence with others, almost all, on the hike.
On the Angel’s Landing section of the trail, I was happily surprised at how few people I encountered along the first few hundred yards. It was wonderful solitude. I took my time, taking photos and simply standing at some of the cliff-edge points, looking down, as well as gazing across to the other high rising mountains of stone that border Zion Canyon on both sides. Angel’s Landing, as great as it is, is actually one of the lower structures within the canyon. Some parts of the trail have chains to hold as a means of security next to steep drop-offs. Other sections have chains that do that as well as provide a way to pull oneself up where, without the chains, it would be very difficult.
Near the end/top of the trail, I met and talked with a group of Chinese graduate students. They were on Fall break from Duke University. I also talked with a couple from L.A., John and Nora. John grew up in Yonkers, Nora is from Michigan. John seemed to be an avid photographer, and later, while waiting for the bus after the hike, he showed me shots he had of a condor that were really great. He was so excited. I also met a couple from Summit County, Colorado, who were living in their truck camper. They were with another couple (Abby and her partner), who were schoolteachers in Denver.
I stayed at the top for about 30 minutes, talking with the people I mentioned and some others. The walk down was just as fantastic as going up. One gets another set of views that are just as amazing as on the way up. As I neared the end of the Angel’s Landing section, arriving back at Scout’s Landing, I was a little disappointed that I was at the end.
The entire hike took me about five hours. Such time well spent. I look forward to doing it again!
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